There is something particularly magical about Eryri (Snowdonia) in autumn. The mountain landscape slowly shifts from green to gold, the coast feels wilder and quieter, and on clear evenings, the night sky reveals some of the darkest skies in the country.
From woodland walks and windswept beaches to mountain trails, wildlife encounters and quiet afternoons with a good book, there is plenty to discover as the seasons change. Here are a few ways to make the most of autumn in Eryri.
Explore woodland walks and trails
There’s something rather special about walking through Eryri’s woodlands in autumn, when the leaves begin to turn and the air takes on that unmistakable seasonal crispness.
We have a wonderful variety of woodland walks, from gentle riverside paths to longer trails beneath ancient canopies, where they come along with a backdrop of the mountains beyond the trees.
Just under an hour’s drive from Penmaenuchaf, Betws-y-Coed is a village surrounded by woodland and crossed by the River Llugwy. The Betws-y-Coed Bridges walk is an easy 3.6km route through the village and surrounding woodland, crossing the river several times along the way.
For something a little closer to home, Abergwynant Woods sits between Dolgellau and Barmouth, on the southern shore of the Mawddach Estuary. There is a 6km route which winds through this native woodland alongside the Gwynant River, with mosses, lichens, fungi and autumn foliage along the way.
Or head to Coed y Brenin, just 15 minutes by car, where miles of forest trails offer plenty of opportunity to leave the more adventurous mountain biking routes behind and simply wander beneath the trees. It is a particularly good choice when you want a day outdoors without committing to a mountain summit.
Explore the quieter coast
One of the best things about Eryri in autumn is the feeling of having a little more space to yourself. Once the busiest summer days have passed, the coast takes on a wilder, quieter character.
Wrap up warm, bring the dog and head towards the sea for a bracing walk along the sand, with the sound of the waves and the mountains behind you.
Less than 20 minutes by car, Barmouth is an easy choice for a day by the coast, with its long sandy beach and views across Cardigan Bay.
Or head north towards Harlech, around a 40-minute drive, where you can combine a walk along the coast with a little history. The Branwen Walk is a 5km circular route taking in Harlech Castle, coastal views and the dramatic peaks of Eryri beyond.
For something quieter still, follow part of the Mawddach Trail between Dolgellau and Barmouth. The route follows the southern shore of the Mawddach Estuary, offering expansive views across the water towards the mountains. At 15km in its entirety, it can easily be enjoyed in shorter sections too.
Discover Eryri after dark
As the evenings draw in, there is another side of Eryri to discover. Eryri National Park is an International Dark Sky Reserve, thanks to its exceptionally low levels of light pollution. On a clear night, you may be able to see the Milky Way, constellations and even shooting stars stretching across the sky.
After a day spent exploring, there is something wonderfully simple about stepping outside, letting your eyes adjust to the darkness and looking up.
You don’t necessarily need to make an expedition of it, either. Find a quiet spot away from artificial light, wrap up warm and give yourself a little time to watch the sky.
Take to the mountains
For those who want to make the most of the crisp autumn air, Eryri’s mountains offer some of the most spectacular views of the season.
Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) is often the obvious choice, with autumn light transforming the landscape below. The Llanberis Path is the longest of the six main routes to the summit, at 14.5km there and back, and is graded hard/strenuous. The beginning of the trail is just over an hour by car from Penmaenuchaf.
But autumn is also a good time to look beyond the best-known peaks. Cadair Idris, the Rhinogydd and the Carneddau all offer a different perspective on Eryri, with quieter paths and far-reaching views.
Do bear in mind that conditions can change quickly at higher elevations as the seasons turn. Check the forecast before setting out and make sure you have the appropriate clothing and equipment for your chosen route. And if the weather isn’t looking quite so mountain-friendly, there are plenty of lower-level walks where you can still enjoy the colours of the season.
Spot grey seal pups
From late summer through to early winter, grey seals come ashore around the Welsh coast to give birth. The main pupping season varies by location, but October and November can be particularly rewarding times to see young seals along some of Wales’s more remote stretches of coastline.
The pups are born with their distinctive white coats, which they shed after their first few weeks as they begin to develop the darker colouring of adult grey seals.
Around 1 hour 30 minutes by car, North Anglesey, including the coastline around Cemaes and Cemlyn Bay, offers opportunities to spot grey seals. New Quay in Ceredigion, around 1 hour 45 minutes from Penmaenuchaf, is another well-known place to look for seals from the shore.
Remember to give seals plenty of space, particularly during pupping season. Watching from a distance with binoculars is the best way to enjoy them without disturbing the animals.
Watch salmon leaping
Autumn also marks the return of Atlantic salmon to Welsh rivers. After spending much of their lives at sea, the salmon make their way upstream to the rivers where they were born, sometimes tackling surprisingly powerful currents and waterfalls along the way.
October and November can be good months to look for salmon, particularly after periods of heavy rain when the rivers are running higher.
One of the best-known places to experience this spectacle is Cenarth Falls on the River Teifi, where salmon can sometimes be seen attempting the falls on their journey upstream. It’s around two hours by car from Penmaenuchaf, but the chance to see salmon tackling the falls makes it a memorable autumn day out.
Closer to Eryri, the Falls of Dolgoch in southern Gwynedd are another place where salmon may be spotted during their autumn run.
There is something wonderfully elemental about watching a wild salmon fight its way upstream. It is one of those seasonal moments that reminds you how much is happening beyond the paths and peaks we spend our days exploring.
Enjoy a quiet afternoon with a good book
Not every autumn day needs an itinerary. Sometimes the best way to spend an afternoon in Eryri is with a good book and nowhere else to be.
Penmaenuchaf’s library has been specially curated by our friends Geoff and Diane at Pen’rallt Gallery Bookshop in nearby Machynlleth, one of Wales’ much-loved independent bookshops. Choose something that catches your eye, settle into a secluded corner or take a book out into the gardens. The collection is there to be explored at your leisure, perhaps introducing you to a new story, idea or perspective along the way.
And if you’re out exploring, why not make a detour to Pen’rallt Gallery Bookshop and pick up something new to bring back with you.
Settle into autumn at Penmaenuchaf
At Penmaenuchaf, we’re perfectly positioned to enjoy the quieter beauty of Eryri in autumn. And there is no need to rush from one thing to the next. Here, the pace is slower, the evenings longer, and there is time to simply settle in and enjoy being away.
Come back to a warm welcome, take your time and let the evening unfold slowly.
Discover an autumn stay at Penmaenuchaf.
